Vintage Jewellery Designer: Christian Dior

Christian Dior took the fashion industry by storm with his ‘New Look’ during the 1950s and became one of the most influential fashion designers of all time.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior was born in Normandy, France in 1905 and moved to Paris with his family when he was about 5 years old. Although his family had other career aspirations for him, his main passion was art. At an early age he produced fashion sketches which he would sell outside his house to make money. He went on to sell sketches to the couture houses of Paris, and managed to secure an apprenticeship with Robert Piguet in 1938. Following a year spent as an officer during World War 2, Dior began working alongside Pierre Balmain in 1941 as one of the main designers for Lucien Lelong.

Dior’s designs impressed textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac who agreed to fund his own couture house in 1946. On the 12^th of February 1947, Dior presented his first collection.  This voluptuous ‘new look’ was completely different to the styles women were used to during the war. The curvy, hourglass shape was created by using much more fabric than war time rationing would allow. This new style soon became popular with many women, including screen stars like Margot Fonteyn and Rita Hayworth.

The New Look by Christian Dior. Photography Willy Maywald.

From 1948 Christian Dior designed jewellery to complement his couture collections. Under licence his jewellery was manufactured and sold worldwide. Dior’s jewellery was of the highest quality, and only the finest companies and designers were employed. In 1952 Mitchell Maer began producing Christian Dior jewellery in London.  His innovative style incorporated opulent rhinestones and faux pearls inspired by historical styles. His Victorian, Georgian and Byzantine collections were particularly popular. Maer went bankrupt in 1956 but his jewellery continues to be sought after by vintage jewellery collectors today. Other companies that designed for Dior include Kramer of New York; Henkel & Grosse and Josette Gripoix

 Dior put a modern twist on many historical designs. His pieces incorporated unusual stones and colours including rainbow effect ‘aurora borealis’ rhinestones which he worked together with Swarovski produce. Magnificent necklaces, brooches and bracelets were made using a variety of different shaped stones with complex multifaceted cuts set in detailed metal settings. The detail of each piece highlights Dior’s insistence on quality. He took inspiration from nature and incorporated many floral designs into his work.  Christian Dior jewellery is always signed.

Christian Dior was highly influential during the 1950s and his designs were sought after by many beautiful and talented women. Following Diors death in 1957 the House of Dior has continued to be a successful, globally recognised brand.