Wednesday 19 June 2013

Delizza and Elster 'Juliana' Vintage Jewellery

Delizza and Elster designed and manufactured jewellery for many 20th costume jewellery houses but are particularly famous for their ‘Juliana’ line of jewellery which has become increasingly sought after by vintage jewellery collectors today.

Vintage Juliana Necklace


Founded by William Delizza Harold Elster  in 1947, the company produced magnificent pieces of jewellery and became well known for their complex three dimensional designs, quality workmanship and use of unusual art glass stones.  They designed and manufactured numerous jewellery sets, earrings, brooches, bracelets and necklaces as well as buttons and belts.

They had a showroom on Fifth Avenue, New York and their jewellery was sold in many department stores throughout the US.  They also produced jewellery for many other well known companies including Kenneth Jay Lane, Tara, Sarah Coventry, Alice Caviness, Coro, Kramer and Hattie Carnegie.

Delizza and Elster jewellery can be difficult to identify as their pieces were unmarked but due to its popularity amongst vintage jewellery collectors many online verification sites have become available. In 1967/68 a paper hang tag in black and gold was attached to identify Juliana jewellery. Finding pieces with the original label attached is rare but extremely desirable for collectors.

There are certain characteristics associated with Juliana Jewellery that can help with its identification. Here is a brief summary

BRACELETS
  • Many incorporated a 5 link construction using round or oval shaped links
  • Most have a safety chain
  • Only square shaped wire used in clamper bracelets
  • Flat backed bracelets also produced


BROOCHES
Vintage Juliana Brooch

  • Built in joint and catch pin
  • Multidimensional layering
  • Circular rings often used for support


NECKLACES

  • Styles included bib necklaces, V shaped necklaces , collars
  • Some incorporated a 5 link construction
  • A J hook closure was most commonly used


EARRINGS




  • Backs most commonly consist of a scalloped shape clip with 3 holes although other types were used.

Features common to all Delizza and Elster jewellery was the use of open and closed navette rhinestones, extravagant art glass stones and glittering aurora borealis and diamantes. Gold  and silver toned metals were used as well as japanned (black) and  gun metal effects.

The prices of Juliana jewellery has dramatically increased over the last few years. When determining the value of a piece, market demand, quality, condition and rarity are important factors.

For more information regarding Juliana Jewellery an excellent resource is Katerina Musetti’s book ‘ The Art of Juliana Jewellery. The book include a comprehensive guide to  the history, identification  and care of Juliana Jewellery along with beautiful photographs throughout.




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