Tuesday 30 April 2013

TRIFARI VINTAGE JEWELLERY. A SHORT HISTORY

Trifari was a highly successful  jewellery company who produced high quality costume jewellery throughout a large portion of the 20th century. Their jewellery was favoured by many Hollywood and Broadway stars during the 1930s, and was worn by Mamie Eisenhower at the inaugural balls of 1953 and 1957. Trifari jewellery continues to enjoy popularity amongst vintage costume jewellery collectors today due to their imaginative designs and high quality workmanship.


                     
Mamie Eisenhower wearing Trifari 


In 1883 Gustavo Trifari was born in Naples, Italy. Having trained as a goldsmith under his Grandfather Luigi, he emigrated to New York City in 1904. He began working with his uncle to produce costume jewellery, going on to establish Trifari and Trifari together in 1910. In 1912 Gustavo began working for himself and Trifari was founded. Joined by Leo Krussman in 1917 and Karl Fishel in 1923 the company became Trifari, Krussman and Fishel in 1925.
Trifari jewellery became popular due to the wide range of high quality jewellery they produced. In 1930 the company employed Alfred Philippe who had previously designed for Cartier and Van Cleef and Arples.  Working as head designer, Philippes creative ability contributed greatly to the companys success. He designed some of Trifaris most successful lines including ‘Crown’ pins and ‘Jelly Bellies’ which were particularly popular then, and are prized by vintage costume jewellery collectors today.


                                 
Trifari Crown Pins - The Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II 1953


A shortage of base metals due to war time restrictions brought challenges for costume jewellery manufacturers. From 1942 Trifari were forced to use sterling silver as an alternative and their prices increased dramatically as a result. Surprisingly, sales were not affected and they continued to enjoy success. In an attempt to reduce costs the company introduced a special alloy named Trifanium in 1947.


 Trifari pearl belly pins set in Trifanium

Before 1954 costume jewellery did not come under copyright laws. It was Trifari who were responsible for changing this when they took Coro to court for copyright infringement and won.  Jewellery produced after this date features the copyright symbol.

1960s Vintage Trifari Earrings
1960s Vintage Earrings by Trifari

Thursday 25 April 2013

GOLDETTE VINTAGE JEWELLERY


  I’m a big fan of Goldette vintage jewellery and recently added two beautiful vintage necklaces to the shop. Here’s a little bit of information about the company and the styles of jewellery they produced.



Goldette was a line of jewellery made by Circle Jewellery Products – New York City. Founded by Ben Gartner in 1958, the company produced a wide range of high quality costume jewellery up until its closure during the late 1970s. The company produced both signed and unsigned pieces of jewellery. Marks used by the company included Goldette NY ©, ©Goldette and Goldette ®


1960s/70s Goldette Amethyst Glass Vintage Necklace


Goldette jewellery was manufactured in New Jersey and designs were influenced by a number of different styles including, Victorian, Oriental, Native American, Art Nouveau and Roman. They were particularly famous for their sliding charm bracelets which are now very collectable as well as their lockets, leaded glass sets, fobs and cameos. Their jewellery was made using silver and gold tone metals, often decorated with faux gemstones, seed pearls and diamante embellishments. Clasps were intricately detailed which can help with the identification of unsigned pieces.