Acrylic Cast Bridal Jewellery Bag by Ted Noten

By Photography: Atelier Ted Noten / Artwork: Atelier Ted Noten [Attribution], via Wikimedia Commons

I love this 'Ageeth's Dowry' bridal bag by Dutch jewellery designer and conceptual artist Ted Noten. Acrylic cast containing jewellery donated by the bride's family, with double pearl string carrying strap

Vintage Costume Jewellery Designer: Kramer

Kramer Jewellery Creations was extablished by Louis Kramer in New York City in 1943. The company produced a vast array of beautiful costume jewellery up until its closure in the late 1970s.

Kramer favoured an extravagant style.  His lavish designs incorporated numerous sparkling rhinestones creating a look synonymous with luxury. His high end pieces were made using the finest Swarovski crystals and complemented the glamorous fashions of the 1950s.

Kramer’s artistic talent was admired by Christian Dior who commissioned the company to produce jewellery under his name. These pieces are particularly collectable and sought after by vintage costume jewellery collectors today. Also popular are pieces marked ‘Amourelle’; a rare line of jewellery produced by Miriam Haskell designer Frank Hess.

The wide range of jewellery produced by Kramer included glittering bracelets, necklaces, and full parures as well as many figural pieces.  

Vintage Kramer Bracelet

How to store vintage costume jewellery

Vintage costume jewellery can be very delicate so it is important to store it carefully. Here are a few tips to keep your vintage jewellery in pristine condition.

·         Wipe jewellery with a soft dry cloth after wearing. Perfumes, cosmetics and hairsprays contain chemicals that can damage costume jewellery.

·         Store flat in a cool, dry place. Avoid placing jewellery in direct sunlight or anywhere hot as this can melt any glue and cause stones to loosen or fall out.

·         Store each item separately to avoid scratching and chipping of jewellery. Protect delicate items by wrapping in a soft cloth or jewellery pouch.

·         Avoid storing in plastic bags as moisture can become trapped and cause damage.

What is Costume Jewellery?

Costume jewellery is often referred to as ‘fake’ or ‘imitation’ jewellery as opposed to ‘fine’ jewellery which is made from precious metals and gem stones. 

In the 1930s, fashion couturiers created imitation jewellery to accessorise their designs, which is where the term ‘costume jewellery’ is thought to originate. Although the phrase originated in the early 20^th century, costume jewellery has been worn for thousands of years.  Jewellery made from shells, bone and various other materials was worn very early in our civilisation for many different purposes including the display of wealth, status, love and worship

Wearing jewellery to display wealth and status became less appropriate with the shortages experienced during World War I and II and the popularity of costume jewellery increased around this time. The mass production that followed made jewellery much more affordable. Pieces were designed to accessorise current fashions and be replaced when new trends emerged. The benefit of this was that manufacturers were able to create many extravagant and unusual pieces which would have been too expensive to produce if precious metals and gemstones were used.

Costume jewellery marks a moment in time and reflects the fashions of the day. It gives a snapshot in history, and is one of the reasons vintage costume jewellery is so popular amongst collectors. Although a lot of costume jewellery was not originally designed to last, many pieces have survived and will continue to be worn and loved. In my opinion this is what makes vintage costume jewellery so special.

How to clean vintage costume Jewellery

In order to preserve vintage costume jewellery it is very important to take care if you decide to clean it.  Costume jewellery was not always made to last but to be worn as a fashion accessory and replaced when new trends emerged. For this reason it is a lot more delicate than fine jewellery. However, if looked after correctly vintage costume jewellery can continue to sparkle for many years to come.

Moisture is the biggest enemy of vintage costume jewellery and submersing your jewellery in any kind of liquid should be avoided at all costs. This is particularly important if the piece contains rhinestones, as liquid can cause damage and darkening of the stones. Chemicals can also cause damage therefore many jewellery cleaning solutions are not suitable for costume jewellery.

For rhinestone jewellery a dry polishing cloth is the safest method but if necessary you could use a soft brush such as a make- up brush or baby toothbrush to gently remove any dirt build up. Be very careful if the piece contains aurora borealis stones as the coating can be easily scratched.  If the piece is very dirty, a damp cloth can be used, followed by a dry cloth to polish. Avoid wetting the jewellery and continually blot any moisture from the piece. Rhinestones often have a foil backing which can become easily damaged if moisture gets behind the stones. If the jewellery does get wet, make sure it is dried thoroughly with a hairdryer on a cool setting (heat can also damage rhinestone jewellery).

For rhinestone or crystal jewellery that is not foil backed, a small amount of glass cleaner can be used. Buff with a soft dry cloth.

Gold , silver, rhodium plated  and vermeil  jewellery can be cleaned with warm soapy water and a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaning solutions as this can scratch and damage the plating. Make sure any soap residue is removed and dry thoroughly. Avoid using any chemical cleaning solutions.

Always store your jewellery in a cool dry place and avoid direct sun exposure.  Avoid direct contact with make-up, perfumes and body lotions as these can contain chemicals which lead to tarnishing. Wipe with a soft dry cloth after wear.

                                                                                                                                                 

Monday Must Have: Vintage 'Juliana' Brooch by Delizza and Elster

This weeks Monday Must Have is this lovely vintage Juliana brooch by Delizza and Elster. Featuring sparkling green and hot pink navette rhinestones this brooch is a stunning addition for any Juliana vintage jewellery collector. This brooch is a book piece and is featured in Katerina Musetti's book 'The Art of Juliana Jewellery'. 

Vintage Juliana Brooch by Delizza and Elster

Delizza and Elster 'Juliana' Vintage Jewellery

Delizza and Elster designed and manufactured jewellery for many 20^th costume jewellery houses but are particularly famous for their ‘Juliana’ line of jewellery which has become increasingly sought after by vintage jewellery collectors today.

Founded by William Delizza Harold Elster  in 1947, the company produced magnificent pieces of jewellery and became well known for their complex three dimensional designs, quality workmanship and use of unusual art glass stones.  They designed and manufactured numerous jewellery sets, earrings, brooches, bracelets and necklaces as well as buttons and belts.

They had a showroom on Fifth Avenue, New York and their jewellery was sold in many department stores throughout the US.  They also produced jewellery for many other well known companies including Kenneth Jay Lane, Tara, Sarah Coventry, Alice Caviness, Coro, Kramer and Hattie Carnegie.

Delizza and Elster jewellery can be difficult to identify as their pieces were unmarked but due to its popularity amongst vintage jewellery collectors many online verification sites have become available. In 1967/68 a paper hang tag in black and gold was attached to identify Juliana jewellery. Finding pieces with the original label attached is rare but extremely desirable for collectors.

There are certain characteristics associated with Juliana Jewellery that can help with its identification. Here is a brief summary

BRACELETS

• Many incorporated a 5 link construction using round or oval shaped links
• Most have a safety chain
• Only square shaped wire used in clamper bracelets
• Flat backed bracelets also produced

BROOCHES

Vintage Juliana Brooch

• Built in joint and catch pin
• Multidimensional layering
• Circular rings often used for support

NECKLACES

• Styles included bib necklaces, V shaped necklaces , collars
• Some incorporated a 5 link construction
• A J hook closure was most commonly used

EARRINGS

• Backs most commonly consist of a scalloped shape clip with 3 holes although other types were used.

Features common to all Delizza and Elster jewellery was the use of open and closed navette rhinestones, extravagant art glass stones and glittering aurora borealis and diamantes. Gold  and silver toned metals were used as well as japanned (black) and  gun metal effects.

The prices of Juliana jewellery has dramatically increased over the last few years. When determining the value of a piece, market demand, quality, condition and rarity are important factors.

For more information regarding Juliana Jewellery an excellent resource is Katerina Musetti’s book ‘ The Art of Juliana Jewellery. The book include a comprehensive guide to  the history, identification  and care of Juliana Jewellery along with beautiful photographs throughout.

Monday Must Have: 1980s Vintage Givenchy Earrings

These huge 1980s vintage earrings by Givenchy are definitely a statement piece! Chunky and bold in a gold tone finish, these clip back earrings are in excellent vintage condition.

Vintage Jewellery Designer: Christian Dior

Christian Dior took the fashion industry by storm with his ‘New Look’ during the 1950s and became one of the most influential fashion designers of all time.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior was born in Normandy, France in 1905 and moved to Paris with his family when he was about 5 years old. Although his family had other career aspirations for him, his main passion was art. At an early age he produced fashion sketches which he would sell outside his house to make money. He went on to sell sketches to the couture houses of Paris, and managed to secure an apprenticeship with Robert Piguet in 1938. Following a year spent as an officer during World War 2, Dior began working alongside Pierre Balmain in 1941 as one of the main designers for Lucien Lelong.

Dior’s designs impressed textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac who agreed to fund his own couture house in 1946. On the 12^th of February 1947, Dior presented his first collection.  This voluptuous ‘new look’ was completely different to the styles women were used to during the war. The curvy, hourglass shape was created by using much more fabric than war time rationing would allow. This new style soon became popular with many women, including screen stars like Margot Fonteyn and Rita Hayworth.

The New Look by Christian Dior. Photography Willy Maywald.

From 1948 Christian Dior designed jewellery to complement his couture collections. Under licence his jewellery was manufactured and sold worldwide. Dior’s jewellery was of the highest quality, and only the finest companies and designers were employed. In 1952 Mitchell Maer began producing Christian Dior jewellery in London.  His innovative style incorporated opulent rhinestones and faux pearls inspired by historical styles. His Victorian, Georgian and Byzantine collections were particularly popular. Maer went bankrupt in 1956 but his jewellery continues to be sought after by vintage jewellery collectors today. Other companies that designed for Dior include Kramer of New York; Henkel & Grosse and Josette Gripoix

 Dior put a modern twist on many historical designs. His pieces incorporated unusual stones and colours including rainbow effect ‘aurora borealis’ rhinestones which he worked together with Swarovski produce. Magnificent necklaces, brooches and bracelets were made using a variety of different shaped stones with complex multifaceted cuts set in detailed metal settings. The detail of each piece highlights Dior’s insistence on quality. He took inspiration from nature and incorporated many floral designs into his work.  Christian Dior jewellery is always signed.

Christian Dior was highly influential during the 1950s and his designs were sought after by many beautiful and talented women. Following Diors death in 1957 the House of Dior has continued to be a successful, globally recognised brand.

MONDAY MUST HAVE: VINTAGE CHRISTIAN DIOR EARRINGS

This weeks Monday Must Have are these chic gold plated vintage Christian Dior earrings. Featuring black enamel detail and  prong set diamantes , these earrings are a glittering example of 1980s Christian Dior costume jewellery.

      

MONDAY MUST HAVE: VINTAGE RING BY MONET

This weeks Monday Must Have is this eyecatching vintage ring by Monet. Originally Monocraft, the company was founded in the late 1920s by the Chernow Brothers who gained success producing monograms for handbags. They went on to manufacture jewellery under the Monet name in the late 1930s and were famous for their beautiful designs and high quality workmanship.  In later decades Monet  manufactured  jewellery for Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix